Fall beauty trends 2012: Deep plum lips
This vampy look (seen at Christian Siriano and Viktor & Rolf) is dramatic, but a lot of people can pull it off, says Maryann Richardson, a makeup artist based in London, England. If you have pale skin, balance the look by keeping everything simple (“Just apply mascara for some spidery lashes,” she suggests) so the lips are the main focus. If you are fair in tone, go for a berry-coloured lipstick for an bitten-lip look, she says, and if you have darker skin tone, you can rock a deep purple plum. One of Richardson’s favourite plum lipsticks? MAC lipstick in Diva. For more staying power, use a matte lipstick, and if you really want more shine, just add a tiny bit of clear gloss, she says.
Fall beauty trends 2012: Graphic eyeliner
Get drawing — the runways were flooded with so many different edgy, graphic takes on eyeliner. If this feels too superhero-esque to you, Richardson suggests lining the lower lash line, and extending out the line for a 60s vibe, but to have the end of it squared off, rather than tapered to a point. The look from the Lanvin runway is also simpler take on the bold liner looks. To try this look, she suggests covering the eyelid in black grease pencil and drawing it out for an cat’s eye shape. “This would be great for a night out at a music event,” adds Richardson, who says you can help set the grease pencil with a bit of powder.
Fall beauty trends 2012: Colour-blocked eyeshadow
“Add colour to your eye makeup but go with more easy to use colours to make it more wearable for everyday,” says Richardson. so use gold rather than yellow , or blue liner rather than over most of your eyelid. For a look inspired by the one at Prabal Gurung, rather than the black eyeshadow, use a metallic base such as golden bronze over your entire lid. Then use an aquamarine pigment such as one from MAC or Lise Watier and dab it one the centre of your eyelids. “This pop of colour will move the focus to the centre of your face and will open up the eye,” she says. T hen use your finger to blend it slightly into your bronze base colour. Finish the look with a nude lip that more beige than pink.
Fall beauty trends 2012: Frostbitten cheeks
Until winter’s frost arrives, giving us naturally cold-chapped cheeks, get this hot runway look (seen at Issa and A.F. Vandevorst) by applying a fresh pink blush to the apples of the cheeks.Be careful to not bring the blush too forward or too high up towards the forehead, says Richardson, or you risk looking feverish. Try Lancome Blush Subtil in Rose Fresque — it suits most skin tones, she says.
Fall beauty trends 2012: Contoured face and eyes
“I love this look!” exclaims Richardson of the runway makeup for Marni. “It’s a bit ghoulish, but it really emphasizes the features naturally.” Once you’ve perfected your foundation and concealer, start by contouring your face: Suck in your cheeks and apply to the sunken in part, going no further into the face than the outer edge of your eyebrows (so you’re drawing a C-shape from the edge of your eyebrows to the lower sunken in part near your chin). To get the right colour for your contouring powder, look for flat, ashy shades (steer clear of anything with any red or orange in it, says Richardson, as the idea is for it to look like natural shadowing on your face). Then for the eyes, using a round tip brush, apply a brown eyeshadow close to the lower lashes and spread down and blend out. You can add a bit of brightness to the eye with some white eyeliner on your lower lash line.
Fall beauty trends 2012: Drawn-on lashes
Skip the tedious process of getting lash extensions and draw lashes right onto your lid like they did at the Jean Paul Gaultier show. To recreate the look, Richardson suggests applying a creamy or greasy eyeshadow to your eyelid and along the lower water line; blend out with a soft brush. “Then using an angle brush and a black or charcoal grey eyeshadow, apply the shadow in a flicking upward and outward motion, to creat the illusion of lashes,” she says.
If this look is too dramatic (“It is more of a runway-only look,” admits Richardson), then perhaps take inspiration from the lower-key take from the Derek Lam runway. to get a simliar look that is wearable on the streets, Richardson suggests applying false lower lashes and then using the tip of your mascara wand, brush product onto your lower lashes to create a clumpier, spidery effect.